November 30, 2012
“The Minimalist” is the title Kevin Carrigan gave to his new collections for Calvin Klein’s White Label. “Mies van der Rohe, Ellsworth Kelly, that American era,” he said at a presentation yesterday, where models lounged, sunbathed, and did the occasional pushup in a minimal “house” made of construction studs. “Artists were doing things that were very linear, very graphic. Calvin’s always had this singular note of architectural, minimal. It seems like a lot of people doing that, using Calvin as an influence. So why not be true to us?”
You can’t out-Calvin Calvin, in other words, and the collection he showed suggested that resistance may be futile. The fabrics are soft (habutai and crepe de chine, jersey) but the lines were hard and graphic: bold blocks of color and stripe, in black and white, set off by what Carrigan was calling “gouache colors”: cool viridian green and cobalt blue. Stark, yes, but not rigid—”the effortless ease of a tunic and a T-shirt” is how Carrigan summed it up—and though colors were cooler, they were still pretty bright. They’d been inspired by the runaway success of the brightly colored underwear and jeans the skivvies division created last season. If drawers continue to be the predictor of things to come, look out for single-seam garments next season: That’s the big story for this Spring’s underthings.
Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com