Marios Schwab

LFW Preview: Marios Schwab

February 21, 2011  
In a new series, drops in on a few of London’s hottest young talents to find out what’s in store. Next up: Marios Schwab, who presents her collection tomorrow.

“I’m preoccupied with the topography of the body,” Marios Schwab said at his Dalston studio a few days before his Fall show. “I look at clothes in a much more graphic sense—what you place and where you place it.”

His inspirations for the season range from the Austrian architect Adolf Loos (who famously wrote that ornamentation slows down culture) to the famous inscription at the Temple of Delphi, “Nothing in excess.” That helps to explain the subtle touches, like traditional broguing around the torso of a burgundy leather dress. That’s a detail that brings to mind the tattoos in his Spring ‘11 collection. “The hand is always the same, so whatever it draws comes from the same mind,” he says. “And there is something about the things that surround you all your life.”

But Schwab is clearly having fun at stodgy Loos’ expense, too. His inspiration board is covered with images of pearls, including a portrait of a laughing Marilyn Monroe draped in a necklace. “It’s the opposite of all this, no?” the designer laughs. “I wanted to mix the gentleman’s brogue with something very feminine, cold, and distant like pearls.” Throughout the collection, rows of Swarovski faux pearls are inserted into seams, so the pearls are only half-exposed, or “caught” in the draping of a loden wool dress, like necklaces.

And how is he planning to empty his mind of all this once the show is over? “I’ll go to a Greek island and relax. But first, I want to go out and party, just go wild!” Nothing in excess—except the occasional bash.

Photo: Jaja Hargreaves /
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